Monday, March 16, 2009

Fashion: Fall 09 -- Bruises and the Fetishized Superhero

Yes so, I do this each season, at least I have been doing it the last few seasons. Just because I'm a huge nerd, and I like fashion and find it to be one of the artistic mediums that does inspire me in my writing, yada yada.

First off, I've got about 71 looks I pulled from the runways, that are over on my flickr. If you just want to scroll through a more comprenhensive dose of my tastes.

Flickr Looks Fall 09

Second off, my generalized reactions to this season. Honestly, it was pretty depressing. And that made me mad. Yes I get it we are in a depression, and everyone wants to be sensative to that. But fashion can be so uplifting and inspiring--put on a damn show damnit! Most of the clothes aren't accessible for the general population anyways. The least you could do is put on a show that we can all still enjoy. I found much of the season, especially New York and London, to be entirely too reserved and safe. The colors for Fall are black and blue, which not unsuprisingly are the same colors of a bruise. Which is appropriate because so much of the industry is acting like a beaten puppy. Grrrr.

That said, there were a lot of things I really liked. There's this whole vein of superhero inspired ideas that gets the comic book fan in me excited. From the mad scientist gloves, to the body suits, to the boots, to the masks--a lot of these looks could go right off the runway to fighting crime. Which I think is neato. But again, that's because I'm super lame.

EDIT: Leather was also way in. Which, I can sort of appreciate, but as with furs, it's not something I have any interest in wearing, and any appreciation I have for furs or leather, is tempered by my hatred of it. I'm good with fake leather or fake fur. But real leather or real fur, is fucking stupid. Anyways.

Anyways. Here are the shows with some pics, that I liked most. Which again, if you want to see more, go to my flickr for that.

Or go to and see the complete collections. I think is a tremendous resource. They have videos of a lot of the shows, and they have a huge database going back some years, so you can really see how a designer has progressed, and put the work in context. I also think their reviews are generally fun to read, even if they tend to be overly positive. But I do think they give you a good idea of what went on. Anyways. I can't say enough. I like that site a lot, and it makes me happy that they do it.

1. Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 09
his was far and away my favorite show of the season. And I realize after the big deal I made over western bondage last season, to pick another show built around subtle bondage flourishes, makes me suspect. But I really thought almost everything that came down the runway in this show was amazing. To me this is "Superhero-bondage Chic". And in a season where so little truly stood out, this one definitely did.

2. Fendi 09
or whatever reason, I tend to not enjoy the Italian shows as much as I would want. And honestly, I do feel a little guilty picking like....three Karl Lagerfeld shows. It's probably super cliche, and super trite. But the man is a fucking genius. And his own personal style is so amazing. To me he's the Mick Jagger, Chuck D, Bob Dylan of Fashion. Anyways. This was my second favorite show. It had a very warrior vibe, and unlike a lot of designers Karl wasn't scared of showing some color. And it really worked. The red dress and leather leg warmers was maybe my favorite look of the entire season. It's just so badass.

3. Marni
I'm a fan of all things Marni. It's my favorite line, and I love Consuelo Castiglioni. Her sensibilities are just so RIGHT. To me anyways. Fall 09 wasn't as love at first sight as Spring 09 for me. But this is kind of a grown up mature Marni, that still retains the things I like about it. It's still quitisentially Marni, but in a very grown up chic way this season. Which I still enjoyed. I'd also add that you saw the knee high socks with sandals look that was hugely featered in Marni's spring show, all over the place this season. And then I'd also chuck in that Consuelo is also on the mad scientist glove crazy train. Just saying. Her sense of what's right, in any given time period, perfectly jives with my moods.

4. Dries Van Noten
I honestly don't know if I liked this, or was made to like it, or what. My initial reaction was kind of meh. But it's a collection I keep coming back to and liking. It's just so pure. Everything is at it's essence. And again, in a season of blacks and blues, it was so nice to see color done this way.

5. Topshop Unique Fall 09
eah. Topshop. For whatever reason, they rolled out a really great collection, that I felt was both really with it, in terms of the trends I like right now, and still advanced those sufficiently to interest me. To me their collection was like space alien 80s cool. They also had lots of color, and shine. I love this coat by the way.

6. Tao Fall 09
ohn Galliano kind of was on this tip for his show as well. Which was kind of this russian, scandanavian folkloric style. I think Tao did it best. Pretty nifty stuff.

7. Karl Lagerfeld
already covered this, but I love this man. While a lot of people were trapped in the 80s this season(Marc Jacobs), Karl does this crazy blade runner 2099 helmet madness, with these soft beautiful touches pushed in. My favorite thing from this collection is the pants/leggings. They are just the right level of looseness, and the right material, they just made everything look tremendous.

8. Chanel
ast Lagerfeld I think. I always love seeing where Chanel ends and Lagerfeld begins. I felt like this collection was just a stream of little Lagerfeld's going down the runway. I think the Chanel end of it, really adds a polish and chicness to Karl's ideas, and you get these just really cool, but classic looks. Oh yeah, and the almost Kirby/New Gods-like Bodysuits should impress any nerds that are still reading this blog.

9. John Galliano Fall 09
ometimes I wonder if I just like Galliano in theory. A lot of his stuff, I feel should move me, and it just doesn't. At any rate, here's what I was talking about in relation to Tao. Don't get me wrong though, I like a lot of his stuff. I just don't LOOOOVVE it. I do like these red flourishes with the blue though. To his credit too, this, Hermes, and Dior--none of these shows were timid.

10. Alexander Mcqueen Fall 09
his is the perfect collection to end with. Defiant, angry, beaten down. Alexander McQueen's collection for Fall had this brilliant "fuck you ness" to it, while also fully feeling the weight of tragic destruction. This was a show that was more a commentary on the state of fashion. And it was pretty horrific. To some extent, I think McQueen had the definitive word for how I'll remember Fall 09. And just this depression era in general.

Some honorable mentions: The gloves at Proenza Schouler , Fucking Crazy Prada, The Marc Jacobs I really like: Louis Vuitton, Louise Brooks references at Dior, and Vivienne Westwood, just because.

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